Hommes Fashion Tutorial: The Jacket

Here I am, back from my business travels, it was tough (too many meetings, too few time to rest or think or eat properly during the day.....luckily we managed to have a couple of nice dinners), but  now it is going to be a bit more relaxed....hopefully. This is the last instalment of the male suit tutorials.

Last but not least, let's see how to sew a jacket. After several mistakes I came up with this simplified pattern, which fits pretty well. It is partially lined and doesn't look as bulky as IT jackets do.

We shall need cotton or gabardine, and satin for the lining, thread and pins!

Again to draw your pattern you can use these tips from April's Blog

As you see the pattern is quite simple, the only "complicated" parts are the lining of the lapel and the collar.

At first I did a partially lined lapel, but it fitted awfully, so I devised this

The fit is good now whe mus sew the back together:

Nice enough

Now the collar, you have to take the measurement on the doll:

This is not the "elegant way" to attach the collar, but it won't show and it is neat enough:

As you see it fits nicely

The sleeves shall be lined too, as it will be easier for the doll to wear the jacket on long sleeves:

And here's Goffredo in his complete Tobacco Road outfit!

Hope this tutorial is clear enough, please feel free to ask any questions, I'll do my best to answer you!

Hommes Fashion Tutorial: the vest

As promised, here's the new chapter of the Hommes Suit Tutorials.
This is the vest from the first of the Tobacco Road collection outfits (which will be ready sometimes in the winter I hope)
This time I made an express post, with a collage of the steps for each part of the vest. In order to make the pattern I used a ready made IT vest, you can also start from this tutorial by April to design one of your taste. You can click on the pictures to enlarge them.

This is going to be a lined vest, so you will need cotton, satin linin, thread and a lot of pins !

The front, as you will see my vests close in the back, Mattel style, as I like a perfect fit on the front:

The back. This is made of a double layer of satin, for thickness as we'll have to apply our press studs there. We don't want the fabric to fall apart at the seams, do we?

Putting together the whole thing, adding some fake buttons on the front and studs at the back (remember to try it on the doll in order to get the perfect fit):

Et voilà, Goffredo is super handsome in his new outfit. Love this style!