10.02.2015

Hommes Fashion Tutorial: The Jacket


Here I am, back from my business travels, it was tough (too many meetings, too few time to rest or think or eat properly during the day.....luckily we managed to have a couple of nice dinners), but  now it is going to be a bit more relaxed....hopefully. This is the last instalment of the male suit tutorials.

Last but not least, let's see how to sew a jacket. After several mistakes I came up with this simplified pattern, which fits pretty well. It is partially lined and doesn't look as bulky as IT jackets do.

We shall need cotton or gabardine, and satin for the lining, thread and pins!

Again to draw your pattern you can use these tips from April's Blog

As you see the pattern is quite simple, the only "complicated" parts are the lining of the lapel and the collar.



At first I did a partially lined lapel, but it fitted awfully, so I devised this


The fit is good now whe mus sew the back together:





Nice enough



Now the collar, you have to take the measurement on the doll:



This is not the "elegant way" to attach the collar, but it won't show and it is neat enough:


As you see it fits nicely



The sleeves shall be lined too, as it will be easier for the doll to wear the jacket on long sleeves:


And here's Goffredo in his complete Tobacco Road outfit!


Hope this tutorial is clear enough, please feel free to ask any questions, I'll do my best to answer you!

25 comments:

  1. Maybe this is why I don't costume male dolls. Such a lot of work! Great outcome, though. Do you machine-sew your seams and hand-sew your edge finishing?

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    1. Thank you Barb.
      It was the same reason why I didn't collect male dolls in the beginning, too much work! Then I'm become addicted....
      I hand sew everything....I never learned to use a sewing machine!

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  2. Hi Billa, great tutorial, for me it's very clear to follow how you did it. Great job, the result is stunning. You hand sew so neat! It will take a while before I will have the courage to make something like this for my Mortimer doll, I still am at the level of struggling with putting sleeves in a dress and make it look decent LOL! Goffredo looks like a movie star in your suit, so handsome! xxx

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    1. Hi Linda, thanks for the feedback, I didn't really know how to make this tutorial, I'm happy it's clear!
      I'm still struggling to get sleeves right! I've managed to find a way to make them look good enough but each time is quite tough!
      Goffredo is such a dapper guy!

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  3. Wow, Goffredo is so handsome in his new suit. I'm happy to hear that you hand sewed this project as it gives me hope! I don't really have any mail dolls to be honest, but eventually I would love to add some. This is a great tutorial to come back to when the time comes. Thanks for sharing your tutorial! :)

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    1. Hi Farrah, I'm happy you ejoyed it, male dolls are dangerous! Male clothes are so challenging...

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  4. Hi. I love your blog which is why I nominated you for a Liebster Award. Check out Brenova's Blog for all of your details.

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    1. Thank you Brenova, I've checked your blog and I will make a follow up to the Liebster Award, it was very nice of you to nominate me....again...LOL
      But I'm going to reply to your answers!!!

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  5. Love the fit on Goffredo, Billa! So so handsome! Great job! I have been dreaming of making jackets and the complexity just scares me hahaha! Really, you did an awesome outfit for your handsome fellow =)

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    1. Hi Shasha, with your skills it's just a matter of drawing the right pattern! Looking forward to some jackets of yours!

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    2. Tee hee... thanks, dear and yes, I will try =D

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    3. I already envision wonderful trouser suits for your ladies coming out your atelier!

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  6. Hello from Spain: Fabulous tutorial. This outfit is awesome. he is very handsome and elegant. Keep in touch

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    1. Thank you Marta! I'm really happy with this outfit!

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  7. This came out nice, Billa. I like the stitching, it gives the jacket an added touch. That took a lot of patience.

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    1. Everything about making miniatures for dolls involves a lot of patience, but it is so rewarding, and nerve soothing!

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  8. So nice! I like the idea of a partial lining. Great color choice.

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    1. Thank you Vanessa, partial lining is a solution I've worked out to get realistic fitting. Often complete lining looks too bulky on 1/6 scale!

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  9. Billa, that is one great looking suit!!!! I've just glanced over it, but I will be coming back to take more time to look it over because my guys all need clothes for the end of the year and anything that simplifies the process is welcome. I want to really look at the detail of the collar because this is the most problematic for clothes so tiny. Right side out, yours looks really good! The jacket with the vest over the shirt are VERY impressive. Bravo, great tutorial!!!!!

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    1. Hi April, Thank you so much! the collar is the hardest part to figure out, while I'm not yet satisfied with the sleeves (armpit and shoulders) but I'm sure it all depends from my pattern which is not correct....
      But it looks good, and it is all that matters in miniatures, doesnt' it?

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  10. Ciao Billa
    this is an amazing hand sew project,thanks for share the tutorial looks difficult all handmade.
    you brave ragazza ;-)
    I never did male clothing,fabulous to see your details.

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    1. Hi MC, Thank you a lot! Male clothes are so intriguing, and so challenging.

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  11. do you share the pattern for this? i am a beginner and would like to try this for my two homme dolls

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    1. Hi Charlmagne, unfortunately I don't have a pattern, as I draw each from scratch. But you can find the tutorial to draw a precise one on April's Blog: http://fashiondollstylist.blogspot.it/2013/07/such-good-sport-jacket.html
      You can make the changes to this drawing looking at my pictures (you can enlarge them) hope this helps!

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  12. hi, this is amazing, can you share the pattern? i have two hommes who barely has any clothes, and i 'd like to tr these.

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